Asphalt is held together by a binder that dries out over time. At 4,760 feet, Jensen gets strong sun most of the year, and summer heat speeds that process up. Once the binder oxidizes, the surface turns gray, small stones start to loosen, and hairline cracks show up. Winter water then finds those cracks, freezes, and opens them wider every year until potholes form.
Asphalt sealcoating puts a fresh protective layer over the pavement before that damage gets ahead of you. We clean the surface, fill cracks, treat oil spots, and apply sealer in even coats. For most Jensen driveways and lanes, resealing every few years keeps the asphalt dark and flexible and adds years to its life. It’s a small job that protects a big investment.
We've seen how high desert sun and Uintah Basin winters wear down asphalt, so we plan each sealcoat around those conditions.
Blowers, crack fill equipment, and spray and squeegee rigs let us coat a short driveway or a long farm lane evenly.
If your pavement needs repairs before sealing would do any good, we'll explain that instead of just coating over it.
We tape off walks and garage floors, keep overspray off siding, and clean up all debris before we leave.
Higher elevation means stronger ultraviolet light, and Jensen sees a lot of clear days. That sunlight breaks down the oils in asphalt binder, which is what keeps pavement flexible. As it oxidizes, the surface goes from black to pale gray and gets brittle.
Brittle asphalt doesn’t flex when the ground shifts or temperatures swing, so it cracks. Sealcoating replaces that worn top film with a fresh one that takes the sun’s beating instead of the pavement itself. It’s one of the simplest ways to slow the aging of a driveway, and it costs far less than the repairs that brittle asphalt eventually needs. A sealed surface also looks darker and newer, which most people notice right away from the road.
A sealcoat is only as good as the surface it goes on. Dust, dirt, and loose stone keep sealer from bonding, so we start with a thorough sweep and blowout, then trim back grass and weeds along the edges. Oil and fuel drips get cleaned and primed, since sealer won’t stick to them otherwise.
Cracks get filled before sealing, because sealer alone is too thin to bridge them. If the pavement has potholes or broken sections, those need asphalt repair first. Sealing over failed areas just hides the problem for a few months. We’d rather fix the spot right and then seal over a sound surface.
Sealcoating is protection, not reconstruction. It helps a lot with some problems and does nothing for others:
Knowing that up front helps you decide whether your driveway needs a sealcoat, a repair, or both.
Sealer needs warmth and dry air to cure properly. Most products call for air and pavement temperatures above roughly 50°F and rising through the day, with no rain expected for at least a day. In Jensen that usually opens a window from late spring into early fall.
The dry climate here, with about 8 inches of precipitation in a typical year, works in your favor. Rain delays are less common than in wetter places. The main thing to watch is cool nights late in the season, so we try to wrap up residential sealcoating well before the cold settles in. Afternoon wind can also carry dust onto wet sealer, so calm days are best.
Rural properties around Jensen often have more asphalt than a typical town lot: a long lane in from the road, a pad in front of the shop, maybe a turnaround for trailers. Those areas see diesel drips, hydraulic fluid, and tractor tires, all of which are tough on bare asphalt.
We can seal the whole property in one visit and plan it around when you need equipment moving. For business owners with a customer lot, our parking lot sealcoating service adds things like phased closures and restriping. Either way, we’ll work out where vehicles can park while the sealer dries so your daily routine isn’t thrown off.
For most driveways, sealing every two to four years is a good rhythm. Heavier traffic or full sun pushes that toward the shorter end. A simple test: if the surface looks gray and water soaks in instead of running off, it’s time. Fine cracks spreading across the surface and loose gravel collecting along the edges are two more signs that the binder is drying out.
New asphalt needs time to cure before its first coat. If you’ve recently had asphalt paving done, plan to wait several months, often until the following season, before sealing. After that, a regular schedule paired with fall crack checks keeps the surface in shape.
We check the asphalt's condition, measure the area, and look for cracks, oil spots, and damage that needs fixing first.
Your quote spells out cleaning, crack filling, oil spot treatment, sealer coats, and how long the area stays closed.
We clean the surface, fill cracks, prime stains, and apply sealer evenly on a warm, dry day, then barricade the area.
After the sealer cures, we check the finish with you and let you know when it's safe to drive and park again.
