A full tear out isn’t always necessary. When an older driveway or lot has surface cracks, faded color, and a few tired patches, but no sinking or widespread soft spots, the foundation is often still doing its job. In that case, a new layer of hot mix over the old one gives you a smooth, dark surface with far less work than starting over. That matters in a dry, sunny spot like Fort Duchesne, where the top layer usually wears out long before the base does.
Asphalt resurfacing in Fort Duchesne starts with an honest check of the base. We repair any failed areas, clean and tack the old surface so the new layer bonds, mill where heights need to match, and then pave and roll the overlay to a clean, even finish.
We've seen how sun and freeze cycles wear pavement along the US-40 corridor and know when an overlay will hold.
Milling machines, pavers, rollers, and tack sprayers let us handle overlays on driveways, lanes, and small lots.
If your base is too far gone for an overlay to last, we'll tell you before you spend money on one.
We sweep up millings, clean the edges, and leave walks, lawns, and garages the way we found them.
Resurfacing, sometimes called an overlay, fits a specific kind of pavement. The ideal candidate is an older driveway or lot that’s lost its looks but not its strength. Cracks are mostly on the surface, water drains off instead of pooling, and there are no deep ruts or areas that flex when a truck rolls over them. Around Fort Duchesne, plenty of driveways fit that description. Dry weather often keeps the base in decent shape, while the strong sun wears the top layer down.
If that sounds like your pavement, an overlay can give you a surface that looks and drives like new without digging out every inch of what’s there.
Before we suggest an overlay, we need to know what’s going on beneath the surface. A new layer will follow whatever is under it, so any weakness left behind will show up again. During the site visit we check for these warning signs:
A few of these in small spots can be fixed before paving. If they’re everywhere, full replacement is usually the better path.
Prep is the part of resurfacing that people don’t see, and it’s the part that decides how long the new layer lasts. Failed areas get cut out, the base underneath gets rebuilt and compacted, and new asphalt goes in to bring those spots back up to strength. Wide cracks get filled so they don’t telegraph through the new surface right away.
Then the whole area is swept clean and sprayed with a tack coat, a thin sticky layer that bonds the old pavement to the new. If your pavement only has a handful of problem spots and still looks decent, targeted asphalt repair might be all you need for now.
An overlay adds height, usually an inch and a half to two inches. That’s not much, but it matters where the asphalt meets a garage slab, a concrete walk, or the edge of a road. Without planning, you can end up with a lip at the garage door or a bump where the driveway meets the street.
We handle that by milling the old asphalt down along those edges so the new layer tapers in smoothly. If the concrete where it meets the driveway is cracked or heaved, it’s a good time to look at concrete repair before the new surface goes on, so both sides line up.
An overlay is hot mix paving, so it follows the same calendar. The best window runs from late spring into early fall, when the old surface is warm and the new mix has time to compact before it cools. With January lows near 5°F, winter paving simply isn’t an option.
Summer in Fort Duchesne gets hot, with July highs around 92°F, so we often start early in the day. Fall can be a great time to resurface, but it’s smart to book before the first cold snap. Getting on the schedule in spring gives you the most flexibility.
A new overlay needs the same care as new pavement. Give it a few days before regular traffic and longer before heavy trucks or trailers. For the first few weeks, avoid turning the wheel while parked and use a board under kickstands and trailer jacks.
After it cures for several months, plan on sealcoating the new surface to protect it from sun and water. Some older cracks may eventually show through the overlay as fine lines. That’s normal, and sealing them each fall keeps water out and the surface tight for many more seasons.
We walk the old pavement, test soft spots, check drainage, and measure heights at garages, walks, and road edges.
Your written quote covers repair areas, milling, overlay thickness, and when we expect to be on site.
We patch failed spots, mill edges, spray tack coat, and lay and roll the new layer of hot mix asphalt.
We look over the finished overlay with you, check every transition, and share tips for the first few weeks.
